Breed: Belgian Malinois

Developed in the city of Malines, where it got its name, the Malinois shares a common foundation with the Belgian Sheepdog and the Belgian Tervuren. In fact, the Belgian dogs share a breed standard in all countries except the United States. The original breeders prized the Malinois’ working character, and historically, the breed has been the favorite type of Belgian Shepherd in its native country.
Belgian Malinois is an alert, high-energy breed, popular as both a police and military working dog. Although sometimes mistaken for the German Shepherd Dog, the Malinois is more elegant in build and lighter-boned, but does not lack for strength, agility or herding ability. Active participants in conformation, obedience, schutzhund, herding, sledding, and tracking, the breed ranges in color from rich fawn to mahogany, with black tips on the hairs and a black mask and ears.
Intelligent and trainable, the Belgian Malinois possesses a strong desire to work and is happiest with regular activity and a job to do. A relatively easy keeper due to their medium size and short coat, this confident breed loves their families, but may be somewhat reserved with strangers. They are naturally protective of their owners without being overly aggressive.


Belgian Malinois Breed Standards

General Appearance
The Belgian Malinois is a well balanced, square dog, elegant in appearance with an exceedingly proud carriage of the head and neck. The dog is strong, agile, well muscled, alert, and full of life. He stands squarely on all fours and viewed from the side, the topline, forelegs, and hind legs closely approximate a square. The whole conformation gives the impression of depth and solidity without bulkiness. The male is usually somewhat more impressive and grand than his female counterpart, which has a distinctly feminine look.

Size, Proportion, Substance
Males are 24 to 26 inches in height; females are 22 to 24 inches; measurement to be taken at the withers. Males under 23 inches or over 27 inches and females under 21 inches or over 25 inches are to be disqualified. The length, measured from the point of the breastbone to the point of the rump, should equal the height, but bitches may be slightly longer. A square dog is preferred. Bone structure is moderately heavy in proportion to height so that the dog is well balanced throughout and neither spindly or leggy nor cumbersome and bulky.

Head
The head is clean-cut and strong without heaviness; overall size is in proportion to the body. The expressionshould indicate alertness, attention and readiness for activity, and the gaze is intelligent and questioning. Theeyes are brown, preferably dark brown, medium size, slightly almond shaped, not protruding. Eye rims are black. The ears approach the shape of an equilateral triangle and are stiff, erect, and in proportion to the head in size. The outer corner of the ear should not come below the center of the eye. Ears hanging as on a hound, or semi-prick ears are disqualifications. The top of the skull is flattened rather than rounded with the width approximately the same as the length but no wider. The stop is moderate. The muzzle is moderately pointed, avoiding any tendency to snipiness, and approximately equal in length to the topskull. The planes of the muzzle and topskull are parallel. The jaws are strong and powerful. The nose is black without discolored areas. The lips are tight and black with no pink showing on the outside. The Belgian Malinois has a full complement of strong, white teeth, that are evenly set and meet in a scissors or level bite. Overshot and undershot bites are a fault. An undershot bite in which two or more of the upper incisors lose contact with two or more of the lower incisors is a disqualification. One or more missing teeth is a serious fault.

Neck, Topline, Body
The neck is round and of sufficient length to permit the proud carriage of the head. It should taper from the body to the head. The topline is generally level. The withers are slightly higher and slope into the back which must be level, straight and firm from withers to hip joint. The croup is medium long, sloping gradually. Thebody should give the impression of power without bulkiness. The chest is not broad but is deep with the lowest point reaching the elbow. The underline forms a smooth ascendant curve from the lowest point of the chest to the abdomen. The abdomen is moderately developed, neither tucked up nor paunchy. The loin section, viewed from above, is relatively short, broad and strong, and blends smoothly into the back. The tail is strong at the base, the bone reaching to the hock. In action it is raised with a curve, which is strongest towards the tip, without forming a hook. A cropped or stumped tail is a disqualification.

Forequarters
The forequarters are muscular without excessive bulkiness. The shoulder is long and oblique, laid flat against the body, forming a sharp angle with the upper arm. The legs are straight, strong, and parallel to each other. The bone is oval rather than round. Length and substance are well in proportion to the size of the dog. The pastern is of medium length, strong, and very slightly sloped. Dewclaws may be removed. The feet are round (cat footed) and well padded with the toes curved close together. The nails are strong and black except that they may be white to match white toe tips.

Hindquarters
Angulation of the hindquarters is in balance with the forequarters; the angle at the hock is relatively sharp, although the Belgian Malinois should not have extreme angulation. The upper and lower thigh bones should approximately parallel the shoulder blade and upper arm respectively. The legs are in proportion to the size of the dog; oval bone rather than round. Legs are parallel to each other. The thighs should be well muscled. Dewclaws, if any, should be removed. Metatarsi are of medium length, strong, and slightly sloped. The hind feet may be slightly elongated, with toes curved close together and well padded. Nails are strong and black except that they may be white to match white toe tips.

Coat
The coat should be comparatively short, straight, hard enough to be weather resistant, with dense undercoat. It should be very short on the head, ears, and lower legs. The hair is somewhat longer around the neck where it forms a collarette, and on the tail and backs of the thighs. The coat should conform to the body without standing out or hanging down.

Color
The basic coloring is a rich fawn to mahogany, with black tips on the hairs giving an overlay appearance. The mask and ears are black. The underparts of the body, tail and breeches are lighter fawn, but washed-out fawn color on the body is a fault. Color should be considered a finishing point, not to take precedence over structure or temperament. The tips of the toes may be white, and a small white spot on the breastbone/prosternum is permitted, not to extend to the neck. White markings, except as noted, are faulted.

Gait
The movement is smooth, free and easy, seemingly never tiring, exhibiting facility of movement rather than a hard driving action. The Belgian Malinois single tracks at a fast gait, the legs, both front and rear, converging toward the center line of gravity, while the topline remains firm and level, parallel to the line of motion with no crabbing. The breed shows a marked tendency to move in a circle rather than a straight line.

Temperament
Correct temperament is essential to the working character of the Belgian Malinois. The breed is confident, exhibiting neither shyness nor aggressiveness in new situations. The dog may be reserved with strangers but is affectionate with his own people. He is naturally protective of his owner's person and property without being overly aggressive. The Belgian Malinois possesses a strong desire to work and is quick and responsive to commands from his owner. Faulty temperament is strongly penalized.

Faults
The degree to which a dog is penalized should depend upon the extent to which the dog deviates from the standard and the extent to which the particular fault would actually affect the working ability of the dog.

Disqualifications
Males under 23 inches or over 27 inches and females under 21 inches or over 25 inches. Ears hanging as on a hound, or semi-prick ears. An undershot bite in which two or more of the upper incisors lose contact with two or more of the lower incisors. A cropped or stumped tail.

Pseudocyesis (False Pregnancy) in dogs

False Pregnancy is a condition in which a female exhibits behavior that resembles pregnancy. This is caused by the influence of hormones produced by the ovaries. During false pregnancy, the female seems restless and tends to "mother" toys, shoes, or other articles. She may attempt to build a nest with torn paper or blankets. Her abdomen may seem larger than normal, and the mammary glands may actually produce milk.
Treatment
In most animals, no treatment is necessary, because the affected female will "cycle" out of the false pregnancy on her own. This may take as long as 2 months. Surgical removal of the ovaries and uterus (spaying) may be advisable in females that have severe or repeated false pregnancies. If your pet's mammary glands become large and painful, application of alternating warm and cold compresses 3 to 4 times daily usually relieves the discomfort. You can also feed one half the normal amount of food for 2 days to reduce milk production. If she is still having pain after 2 days, contact your veterinarian. Also notify your veterinarian if there is discharge of blood or fluid from your pet's vagina or if she is depressed for more than 2 days.
Notify your veterinarian if any of the following occur:

• Your pet still has painful mammary glands after 2 days
• Your pet has discharge of blood or fluid from the vagina
• Your pet is lethargic or loses her appetite 

What causes false pregnancy?
The underlying cause of false pregnancy is understood poorly. All bitches that ovulate remain under the influence of the hormone progesterone for approximately 2 to 3 months. The progesterone concentration is similar whether the animal is pregnant, is not pregnant and not showing signs of false pregnancy, or is having a false pregnancy. Progesterone is a female hormone that maintains pregnancy and causes mammary development. If the animal is pregnant, the concentration of progesterone declines sharply about 1 to 2 days before delivery. The concentration of another hormone, prolactin, increases. Prolactin is the hormone that stimulates milk production. It is thought that the dropping progesterone levels and the increase in prolactin in animals that are not pregnant may be responsible for the changes seen with false pregnancy. In other words, false pregnancy probably is an exaggerated response to normal female hormones.
Animals treated with progesterone for conditions not related to false pregnancy may have signs of false pregnancy when the progesterone-containing medication is discontinued. If an animal undergoes an ovariohysterectomy (spay) during the time when progesterone levels are high, the sudden drop in progesterone following surgery may cause false pregnancy.


What is the prognosis for animals with false pregnancy?
The prognosis (outcome) for animals with false pregnancy is good. False pregnancy is not a disease; it is a normal response to female hormones. While the animal's behavior may be frustrating to the pet guardian, the condition resolves in most animals in 2 to 3 weeks without treatment. However, false pregnancy can develop during subsequent heat cycles.

Breed: Old Danish Chicken Dogs

The breed can be traced back to approximately 1710 when a man named Morten Bak, living in Glenstrup near the towns of Randers and Hobro, crossed gypsy dogs through 8 generations with local farmdogs.  This established a pure breed of piebald white and brown dogs called Bakhounds or Old Danish Pointers. The local farmers called their farmdogs Bloodhounds, but it seems more likely that these hounds were offspring from the Squire’s scent hounds, which in turn were descended primarily from St. Hubert Hounds. Likewise it is probable that the gypsy dogs generally descended from Spanish Pointing Dogs and other breeds of scent hounds, so in many ways St.Hubert Hounds have contributed to the Old Danish Chicken Dog.

Old Danish Chicken Dog Appearance

The Old Danish Chicken Dog is a medium-sized breed of dog that is white with brown markings, originally used as a pointing dog in Denmark.  Old Danish Chicken Dogs are strongly built. One of the most charming features of the breed is the great difference between male and female. While the dog is powerful and substantial, the bitch is characterized by being lighter, more spirited, and capricious.

The acceptable coat colors for this breed are a white base color with brown marks. It has traditionally been used as a pointing dog. The Old Danish Chicken Dog has an impressive build. It should be somewhat muscular, and the tail should hang low. The ears should be long and carried next to the sides of the head. The chest is a bit broad, and the stop should not be prominent. These dogs should weigh no more than 77 pounds, and they should stand at a maximum height of 22 inches.

Old Danish Chicken Dog Height, Weight

Height: Male 54-60 cm (21-23.5 in), above 56 cm (22 in) preferred.  Female 50-56 cm (19.5-22 in), above 52 cm (20 in) preferred.
Weight: Male 30-35 kg (66-77 lb).  Bitch 26-31 kg (57-68 lb)

Old Danish Chicken Dog Temperament

The Old Chicken Dog is a quiet and stable dog with determination and courage.  These dogs are relatively quiet, and are excellent hunters.   During a hunt, Old Danish Chicken Dog will progress slowly and cautiously, always maintaining contact with the hunter and accomplishing its task as a pointing dog without creating unnecessary disturbance of the ground. The breed is suited for small or large hunting grounds. Though it can be slow at times, and it can move quickly when it is necessary.

The Old Danish Chicken Dog is a family friendly dog.  But it needs to get exercise. It is fast and active outdoors and quiet indoors.  However it needs more space than living in a small apartment or confined to a small yard.  This dog is normally cheerful when it is given the physical activity it needs. These dogs are excellent for families, as they are good with children, and they may perform well with other pets if they are properly socialized while they are puppies.

Old Danish Chicken Dog Health

The Old Danish Chicken Dog is a fairly healthy breed that does not suffer from any serious health problems. Hip dysplasia may be an issue because of their size, but they are a very healthy breed. The Old Danish Chicken Dog will have a maximum life expectancy of about 13 years.

The need for exercise is mandatory for owners who do not want to have problems with this dog. The Old Danish Chicken Dog will maintain a cheerful disposition as long as it is given the exercise it needs. These dogs have large amounts of stamina, and they need a venue to utilize this energy. They should not be purchased by owners who do not have the time or the desire to give them a sufficient amount of exercise. They are not a good dog for people who live in apartments or small homes.

Old Danish Chicken Dog Grooming

The Old Danish Chicken Dog has a short coat that does not need a large amount of grooming. Like many hunting dogs, the appearance was not especially important to those who bred it. A firm brush should be used on a consistent basis. They should only be given a bath when it is necessary, and this breed may only shed a standard amount of fur.

Breed: Cane Corso

History:

             The Cane Corso is an ancient Italian molosser, directly descending from the Roman "canis pugnax”. 

Disregarding that the name points out the geographical origin of the breed, the etymology of the expression “corso” is controversial. 

Some believe that the word draws origin from the Latin “cohors” which means protecting, watch, ("praetoria cohors" is for instance means: watch of the body of the general, and it is found in Vatican today, Cohors Elvetica: watch Switzerland).  

To such intention it is of great interest the hypothesis that you may see the root of Corso in the Greek word Kortos, which means the courtyard, the enclosure and with the aforementioned cohors, that would therefore mean the dog set to guard of the courtyard. Such hypothesis, if true, it brings us back to ancient Greece and the suggestive oriental origins of the molossers.  

Still others like to believe that the name Corso has an ancient Celtic-Provincial meaning that means the term strong, powerful.  

This last hypothesis is as reasonable as many since even today we find it still in some words as "corsiero" (battle horse used in the Middle Age), in English word "coarse" (raw, rough), and finally in some dialects of southern Italy in which Corso means strong, fierce.  

It is of fact what, from when one has started to delineate the Italian language, this Molosser has always been called Corso.

  

More suitable term could hardly be coined for describing this dog, together of power and distinction.

  

The characteristics of psychic equilibrium, the absolute devotion to its master and the versatility to suit for the most varied employments are the reason for the success and of the diffusion that the breed had up to a few decades ago.

The most classical use of the Cane Corso was in the hunting of the dangerous game, especially the wild boar. The Segugi (bloodhounds) and the Bracchi (hunting dogs) had to rouse the wild one and therefore, after a pursuit, to force it to halt allowing the hunters to arrive.  The Cane Corso was let loose so that they would hurl on the wild boar and to stop it by catching it by the ears and the snout. 

This allowed the hunters to draw near unharmed and to end the big prey with a well arranged hit. 

It was this final fray, this bloody epilogue, that exalted the men and that brought them to celebrate the scene in a long series of artistic representations. Very similar to this was the job that the Cane Corso had developed with the cattleman and that also that of the butcher's dog.  

Up to many years ago, the meat cattle were raised to the wild state in the uncultivated zones and had to arrive to the slaughter house in the city by being lead from the pockmarks for distances of about ten kilometers.  

Being born and grown to the wild state, the herds had the whole dangerousness of wild animals. In order to control the cattle it was imperative to remove the bull from the middle, using to such end the Cane Corso.  They had to stop the bull by grabbing it on the nose with an iron grip. With the pain caused in this sensitive part, it completely immobilized the big animal.  

Always as drover, the Corso had to defend the herds from the great predators, the bear or the wolf, also from the plague  of the cattle rustlers.

  

A type of very particular hunting in which the Corso was specialized was that of the badger. This large muskrat, from the nighttime habits, was very appreciated both for the fur, and for the taste of the meat and even for the fat, that when melted, was used as a lenitive ointment. Hunting was practiced at night and required dogs particularly trained, because the dark prevented the hunter from employing fire weapons. The Corso had to therefore catch the badger and to kill it with a strong bite behind the nape, before the badger could get in an erect position defend itself with its long and sharp claws.

Standard:

The Cane Corso Italiano is a medium-big size dog, strongly built but elegant, with powerful and long muscles, very distinguished, he expresses strength, agility and endurance.

It is not suppose to have a body like a Rottweiler or face like a Boxer

The general conformation is that of a mesomorphic animal whose body is longer than the height at the withers, harmonious as regards the form and disharmonious as regards the profile. 

The Muzzle is very broad and deep. The width of the muzzle must be almost equal to its length which reaches 3.4/10 of the total length of the head. Its depth is more than 50% the length of the muzzle.

Due to the parallels of the muzzle sides and to the fullness and the width of the whole jaw, the anterior face of the muzzle is flat and square.

The nasal bridge has a rectilinear profile and it is rather flat.

The lower side profile of the muzzle is determined by the upper lips, the suborbital region shows a very slight chisel.

The stop is very marked because of the very developed and bulging frontal sinuses and because of the prominent superciliary arches.

The neck is slightly arched. The neck shape is of oval section, strong, very muscular.

The body is compact, strong and very muscular. The skin is rather thick. The neck is practically without dewlap.

The head mustn't have to many wrinkles or hanging eyes.

The pigment of the mucous membranes is black. The pigment of the soles and the nails must be dark.

The coat is short hair but not smooth, with vitreous texture, shiny, adherent, stiff, very dense, with a light layer that becomes thicker in winter (but never crops up on the covering hair).

Its average length is approx. 2/2,5 cm. On the withers, the rump, the back margin of the thighs and on the tail it reaches approx. 3 cm without creating fringes.

On the muzzle the hair is very short, smooth, adherent and is not more than 1/1,5 cm.

Color - Black, plumb-gray, slate, light gray, fawn, and tubby (very well marked stripes on different shades of fawn and gray).

In the fawny and tubby subjects there is a black or gray mask only on the muzzle and shouldn't go beyond the eye line.

A small white patch on the chest, on the feet tips and on the nose bridge is accepted.

Very loyal, willing to please and quiet around the house. The Cane Corso is highly intelligent and very trainable.

Active and even-minded, he is an unequalled watch and protection dog.  

The Cane Corso Italiano is great with children in the family. Docile and affectionate with the owner. They are protective yet gentle.

The Cane Corso has a very stable temperament. It makes an excellent guard dog and watchdog. It will not wonder from the home.

They stickclose to their masters. If necessary he becomes a terrible and brave protector of people, house and property. 

The Cane Corso is not a fighting dog. They were bred as working dogs for hundreds of years.
Therefore they will not go out "looking" for a fight, but on the other hand they will not back down from other dogs.

The Cane Corso requires an experienced owner. It can be aggressive with strangers and other dogs. It should be carefully socialized when it is a pup. Socialising is the most important thing of all, with this breed.

If you dont socialise your dog correct, it can not be around other dogs or other people, but will become very aggressive towards all strangers

It is highly recommended that these dogs become fully obedience trained. When fully trained, the Cane Corso makes an amenable companion. Suspicious of strangers, but wonderful with the family.

It will usually put up with strangers if the owners are present. When raised correctly, the dog should be submissive to all members of the family 

Ref:

http://www.simplesite.com/canecorso/2656377

                   

Breed: Wolfdog

Wolfdogs, a hybrid wolf dog mix, are usually a very beautiful mix of arctic or timber wolf and various larger domestic dog breeds. Most wolfdogs exhibit physical characteristics of both the wolf and dog in differing combinations. Scientifically the wolf is known as canis lupus and the dog ascanis familiaris. Although closely related, there are anatomical and physiological differences between wolves and dogs. 
In proportion to the rest of the body, wolves have slimmer torsos, longer legs, larger feet, narrower chests, larger heads, larger teeth and more powerful jaws. In addition, unlike most dogs, wolves seldom bark past the point of their playful puppy years. A wolf's eyes are usually a golden color and their coat color varies from black to grizzled grey to white. Wolves are also believed to possess greater endurance and higher stamina than dogs. The wolf has webbed feet to provide better traction on slippery surfaces. The alaskan husky, german shepherd and malamute dog breeds are more wolf like in appearance than other canine pure bred selections and are often the breed of choice when a wolf dog hybrid is bred domestically and a wolf like appearance is important in the resulting offspring.
Many pure bred dogs as we know them today, have a more recent wolf inheritance in their genes than others. For instance, as recently as 100 years ago, the german shepherd was "created" utilizing several pure bred wolves in the development process. Something interesting, when a german shepherd is cross bred with a northern sled dog breed the resulting offspring bears a strong resemblance to a wolf or wolf dog when in fact they are actually "all dog" on paper. There are also certain lineages, such as the the Czechoslovakian Wolfdog and the Saarloos Wolf Dog, that were developed with the specific purpose of creating a stable wolfdog breed.
Crossbreeding between dogs and wolves in the wild does occur occasionally. Wolves are seasonal breeders and breeding in the wild is most likely to occur when a roaming feral dog and a lone wolf of opposite sex meet during the wolf's breeding season. Interestingly, most wolfdog hybrid wolf dog mixes are larger than their parents. The genetic description of a hybrid wolf dog offspring is most commonly represented by a percentage representing the measure of the amount of wolf blood possessed by the hybrid. There is some controversy among breeders regarding which methods work best for determining the proper percentage, as well as their accuracy.
Whatever the percentage, the wolfdog is usually a very gorgeous animal, beautiful to behold. The hybrid wolf dog is often a regal, highly intelligent, captivating creature. Consequently, the wolfdog has steadily grown in popularity and the number of hybrids in the US is estimated to be somewhere around 300,000.
However, the suitability of the hybrid wolf dog as a pet is just one of the many misconceptions about wolfdogs today. Most of what the general public knows about the hybrid wolf dog comes from literature, news articles and unfortunate publicized incidents, and, there has been little scientific investigation to support or disprove subsequent misconceptions. One thing is certain however, a wolfdog is not necessarily a suitable pet for just anyone, and households with young children should especially think twice about their decision to bring a wolf dog into their home. Although many owners have had success with wolfdogs as pets, in general, they can seldom be compared to your standard everyday dog.
There are both physical and behavioral differences between the pure bred wolf and the domesticated dog. Wolves are more predatory in nature than dogs and dogs are actually more aggressive in nature than the wolf, whereas, predatory represents hunting to kill for sustenance and aggressive represents an intention to hurt either for protection or sport. A dog's predatorybehavior toward humans has been supp- ressed through years of domestication, however, human breeding has designed dogs to be aggressive for purposes of protection, obedience or the pursuit of fighting for sport. Mixing the fighting, protective and/or aggressive dog breeds with a wolf is not recommended because the "aggressive guard drive" of the dog mixed with the "predatory" instincts of the wolf have the serious potential to create some dangerous behavioral problems in the resulting offspring. It should also be noted here, that due to their low aggressive tendencies, wolf dog hybrids seldom make suitable watch dogs. They will ferociously defend themselves, but it is not in their nature to attack and/or protect a human counterpart simply by command. Their low tendency to bark also interferes with their performance as "watch dogs".
Since a wolfdog is part wolf and subsequently part "wild" animal, there is always a chance that it will possess a much stronger predatory nature than a domestic dog, therefore, it is often recommended by experts that they be raised as "wolves" rather than dogs. The wolf has a complex social structure based on a hierarchy of dominance within the pack. It is expected that the dominance of higher ranked animals (sometimes "humans") will be constantly challenged by the subordinates in the wolf pack. This behavior is instinctual and domesticated wolves (and wolfdogs) will often challenge their human owners for the position of pack dominance. The combination of the pursuit of dominance in the wolf and the aggressive attack nature of the dog can make the wolfdog dominance challenge particularly dangerous.
Consequently, wolf dog hybrids require astute training methods, methods different from standard dog training techniques. Although perceptive and highly intelligent a wolfdog cannot be expected to behave as a human would either. Successful training will require knowledge and understanding of both dog and wolf behavior in general. Body language is important in both the dog and wolf world so expect your body language to be important to the relationship as well. What we consider an insignificant posture may be considered an indication of threat or weakness by the wolf dog. Many wolf dog behaviorists do not recommend sharing furniture or playing tug of war with your wolfdog as it might lower your position in the dominance hierarchy. Training is often thought of as "socialization" rather than traditional enforcement of obedience and response to commands. Positive rewards and non-submissive compro- mise are often the order of the day. They require a lot of time, patience and energy and they will cons- tantly be testing you. Most enthusiast believe a good sense of humor is important too. The more time you spend on the socialization process the more successful the relationship. Be ready and willing to rearrange your life and schedule to accommodate them rather than yourselves. Vacations may also be a thing of the past as it may be hard to find someone to properly care for them while you are away.
Perhaps, it is best to think of a potential wolf dog as a companion, an "equal" if you will, rather than a "pet". A pet dog might be considered more obedient, submissive and shapeable in nature than a wolf, whereas a wolf dog will need to be appreciated for and integrated into it's owners life 100% for who he is rather than who the owner would like him to be. A pet dog can often be "owned", trained, corrected, ignored or even abused and he will still forgive you and offer you his undying friendship regardless. However, as companions of equality, a wolfdog cannot be "owned", bossed around, ignored or abused or they will no longer offer you their hand in friendship and the relationship will be lost. This only reinforces the fact that knowledge, proper handling, patience and understanding are the key to a successful life with a wolfdog hybrid.
Choosing to bring a wolfdog hybrid wolf dog into your home is a serious decision that will have an impact on many, and it should never be done lightly. If you are considering becoming a wolfdog owner for the first time it would be advisable to visit with as many different hybrid wolf dog breeders and owners as possible. Read as many books on wolf dog hybrids and wolf behavior as you can as well. There are also numerous organizations, websites, message boards and newsletters to investigate. For maximum knowledge, potential hybrid wolf dog owners might explore the idea of working with socialized wolves as a volunteer at a local wolf sanctuary. It is often difficult to really know how we will like or dislike a change in lifestyle until we have actually experienced it. And, as we all know, there is no better teacher than experience itself.
You'll also want to explore the various concerns of this special mix. Special considerations regarding the hybrid wolf dog include a wolf pups tendency toward less than desirable household behaviors. Wolf hybrids often have destructive properties and may be more likely to chew on furniture. They can also be more difficult to housebreak than dogs. Many are not good around small animals, children or cats as they may see them as prey due to their significantly smaller size. Chaining is never recommended, yet they often have a tendency to dig, climb and jump. Fencing should be high and it can get expensive. Dietary requirements can also be time consuming and expensive. Although they seldom "bark" they can be known to howl and this may be disturbing to your neighbors. Like a cat, they "own" you more than you own them and obedience will usually only occur when they feel like it, when it is "their" idea. If you still want to purchase a wolf dog hybrid there are several guidelines you should follow.
When selecting your pup, you'll want to ask for proof that your pup isactually part wolf. As mentioned earlier, a german shepherd sled dog cross mixed breed can be very similar in appearance to a pure bred wolf. You'll also want to find a breeder who is willing to provide a lifetime worth of support who has themselves been working with and breeding wolf dog hybrids for a long time. A good breeder will not breed rescues, breed a female on it's first heat, have frequent accidental litters, or poor containment methods just to name a few. A reputable breeder should have more questions for you than you do for them and they may even require references or photos of your home. If the welfare and happiness of their pups is not their utmost concern, move on.
It will also be important to have some idea ahead of time as to what specific dog breed heritage you would like your hybrid to possess, as this will have a significant impact on your wolf dog hybrid's physical characteristics and general health characteristics. For instance, a german shepherd cross may be more likely to get hip dysplasia as it ages, as this is a german shepherd health characteristic. A few more examples, a siberian mix may be smaller in size and possess blue eyes and a malamute mix may have a denser, thicker coat. You'll find that many wolf dog hybrid breeders will have their own specific preference as to which mix is best. On rare occasion you may run into a wolf dog where the dog portion is a more classic canine such as a golden retriever, standard poodle or lab. These crosses sometimes do well in the home but are usually very non-wolf like in appearance. Under most circumstances, consider temperament first and pedigree second. Behavioral characteristics can be better understood by spending time with the parents, the pup and even siblings from a previous litter.
The age at which your pup is socialized to humans is also very important. The younger you can start working with your pup the better. Some enthusiasts believe it is best to hand raise them starting around two weeks. The ability to be handled and treated by a veterinarian will be important and it is best to work with a doctor that is familiar with handling members of the wolf species. Expect the puppy stage to last as long as 3 years before your wolf dog pup comes to full emotional and sexual maturity. Many first time wolf dog owners are surprised when their loveable pup starts to develop behavioral changes and makes attempts to dominate the family hierarchy for the first time at such a late age.
Also, many enthusiasts believe that as pack animals, they will do best when raised with and surrounded by another of their own kind as well. Room to run and containment are always a must as well and larger wolfdogs may require fencing as high as 8'. Most wolfdog owners report that their wolfdogs do not do well in cars and are most comfortable when allowed to stay within theirterritory.
The hybrid wolf dog is not for all, as a matter of fact it is for the very few, however, under the right circumstances, in the right environment, with the right person, it can be a beautiful companion

Breed: Norwegian Lundehund

The Lundehund,  which takes its name from the lunde, puffin, (Fratercula arctica) is one of the world's rarest breed of dog not only because of its modest numbers, but also because in one and the same breed we find a whole series of unusual anatomical characteristics.  Some of these characteristics are found, but only sporadically, in other breeds.  The lundehund is rare but is also remarkable--what other breed of dog is marked by so many unusual characteristics?  The lundehund has at least 6 toes on each foot;  can close its ears so that the ear-canal is protected against dirt and moisture;  has neck-joints which enable it to bend the head backwards over the shoulders, so that the forehead touches the back--this is useful when the dog has to turn in a narrow passage.  Furthermore, this dog has extremely mobile fore shoulder-joints, so that both front legs can stretch straight out to the sides.

The lundehunds' unusual characteristics were very useful in a particular kind of hunt.  The many toes gave the dog a good foothold when it had to balance on steep cliffs or slippery rocks, and they were a great help when the dog had to crawl through difficult passageways.  The dog used this extra toe as support, also to brake himself on slippery or uneven terrain, so that on the whole the dog was equipped to go where the man could not.  The characteristic fore shoulder-joints enabled the dog to "throw out his arms" if he lost his footing on slippery rock and was, as we have noted, useful when he had to turn or shift in cramped passages.  The mobility of the dog's neck was undoubtedly of great usefulness when he had to reverse himself in order to come out from the passages to the birds' nests.  It is indeed unbelievable what nature has created here:  the Lundehund is so unusually distinguished by his characteristics as to make one ask if, all in all, this IS a dog. 

If the little fishing village, Måstad, on the island of Væroy in the Lofoten Islands, had not had such hopelessly poor communications with the outside world, the world's most unusual dog would now be only history.  The lively little lundehund is, actually, just as rare and select among breeds of dog as are the Arabian and ling horse (ling is a moor with heather) among horses.

AKC Breed Standard:

General Appearance
The Norwegian Lundehund is a small rectangular and agile Spitz breed with unique characteristics not found in any other breed. Originating on remote islands of arctic Norway, the dog was used to wrestle and retrieve live puffin birds from the crevices of steep vertical cliffs. To enable the dog to climb, descend, and brake on these cliffs, unique structural characteristics have evolved and must be present as they define this breed: a minimum of six toes on each foot and elongated rear foot pads; an elastic neck that allows the head to bend backward to touch the spine, letting the dog turn around in narrow puffin bird caves; and shoulders flexible enough to allow the front legs to extend flat to the side in order to hug the cliffs. This shoulder structure produces a peculiar rotary movement. Finally, the ears close and fold forward or backward to protect from debris. The temperament is alert but not expected to be outgoing toward strangers.

Size, Proportion, Substance
Size: The desired height for adult males is between 13-15 inches and 12-14 inches for adult females. Size consideration should not outweigh that of type, proportion, movement and other functional attributes.Proportion: length of body is slightly longer than height at the withers. Depth of chest is approximately one half the height. Substance: The Lundehund should be athletic and agile, never coarse or heavy. Bitches are distinctly feminine but without weakness.

Head
The head is wedge-shaped, of medium width and clean. The skull is slightly rounded with prominent brows. There is a pronounced but not deep stop, and the bridge of the nose has a slight arch. The muzzle is of medium length and width, tapering gradually to the end of the muzzle. Length of the muzzle is approximately two-thirds the length of the skull. Nose and lips are black. 

Teeth: Scissors bite is preferred, but level and reverse scissors bite are permitted. Missing premolars on both sides of the upper and lower jaws are common and allowed.

Eyes: almond-shaped, yellow-brown to brown with a brown ring around the pupil. Light eyes are preferred. Eye rims are dark and complete. 

Ears: medium-size, triangular, broad at the base, carried erect and very mobile. The ear leather can be folded and turned up, backward or at right angles so that the ear openings are clamped shut.

Neck
The neck is clean, of medium length and strong without being thick. NOTE: The judge should never ask the handler to demonstrate the characteristic flexibility in the ring, as the dog can not relax sufficiently at a dog show.

Body
Level back, short loin and slightly sloping croup, slight tuck up. Ribs are carried well back, well-sprung but not barrel-shaped.

Tail
High-set, medium length with a dense coat. When the dog is moving, the tail may be carried trailing or in a graceful arch over the back with the tip touching the back. A tightly curled tail or one that falls too far to either side is undesirable. When at rest, the tail hangs with a slight curve.

Forequarters
Moderate angulation with very elastic shoulders so that the front legs can extend out to the side. The legs are straight with slightly outward-turned feet. The feet are oval with at least six fully developed toes, five of which should reach the ground. Eight pads on each foot. The additional toes consist of one three jointed toe, like a thumb, and one two-jointed toe along with corresponding tendons and muscles that give the foot a strong appearance.

Hindquarters
Moderate angulation in balance with the forequarters. Strong muscular upper and lower thighs. Feet: Oval, slightly outward turned with a minimum of six toes, of which four support the dog's weight. There are seven pads with the center pad elongated. When viewed from behind, the rear legs are close but parallel.

Coat
Double coat with a harsh outer coat and a dense, soft undercoat. The coat is short on the head and front of the legs, longer and thicker around the neck and back of thighs. It is dense on the tail with little feathering. The male typically has a thicker ruff around the neck. The Lundehund is presented naturally with no trimming.

Color
Fallow to reddish brown to tan with black hair tips and white markings or white with red or dark markings. More black hair tips with maturity. Dogs with a completely white head or with 50 percent of the head white should have complete dark eye rims and lashes.

Gait
Light and elastic. As the Lundehund is designed to climb steep cliffs and work into narrow crevices, the front assembly must be flexible and wide. This produces an elastic gait with a unique rotary front movement. He moves close but parallel in the rear.

Temperament
A Lundehund is alert, very energetic, loyal and protective. He can be wary of strangers but never aggressive toward people.

http://lundehund.com/the%20lundehund.htm

http://www.akc.org/breeds/norwegian_lundehund/

Dog Breed: Thai Ridgeback

Ridgeback dog breeds, 
Dog breeds with a ridge on their back

The term 'ridgeback' is most commonly associated with the Rhodesian ridgeback. However, this breed is not alone in bearing this curious dorsal ridge.Another ridgebacked dog is the Thai ridgeback. Two more Asian ridgebacked dogs are the Phu Quoc dog from Vietnam and the Cambodian Razorback Dog. A fifth, less documented breed, is the Mha Kon Klab from Thailand.

Some researchers believe that it were the Phu Quoc dogs or their ancestors which were transported from India and Thailand to the southern African mainland and formed the basis for a ridgebacked breed on the African continent. Ancient Indian dogs may have accompanied the earliest Indian trade vessels and interbred with the early Khoi dogs on the African mainland.


Other cynologists believe that the Ridgeback is indigenous to Africa but was taken to Vietnam, either by the Arabs trading with China, or by the Portugese and Dutch, trading in ivory and gold between Africa and the East from the 15th to the 18th century.

In that case the Khoi dog may have transmitted the ridge feature, not only to the Rhodesian ridgeback, but also to the Asian ridgebacked dogs, even if indirectly. The fact the some Khoi dogs inhabited sparsely populated areas where contact with other dog groups was limited, explains why this spontaneous genetic mutation became fixed in this breed.

While we may conclude that African ridged dogs are indigenous to Africa, it does seem that the Phu Quoc dog and Rhodesian Ridgeback originate from the same basic pariah stock common to southern Asia and Africa.

The Rodhesion ridgeback is the only of the five ridgebacked dogs that was granted championship status, in 1954.

FCI Standards for Thai Ridgeback:

GENERAL APPEARANCE

Medium-sized dog with short hair forming a ridge along the back. The body is slightly longer than its height at withers. Muscles are well developed, and its anatomical structure is suitable for activities.

IMPORTANT PROPORTIONS

Length of body : Height at the withers = 11 : 1O
Depth of chest : Height at the withers = 1 : 2

BEHAVIOUR / TEMPERAMENT

Tough and active with excellent jumping ability. A loyal family dog.

HEAD

CRANIAL REGION
Skull : The skull is flat between the ears but slightly rounded when seen from the side.
Forehead : Wrinkles when the dog is attentive.
Stop : Clearly defined, but moderateFACIAL REGION :
Nose : Black. In blue dogs, the nose is bluish.
Nasal bridge : Straight and long.
Muzzle : Wedge-shaped, slightly shorter than skull.
Lips : Tight with good pigmentation.
Mouth : Black marking on the tongue is preferable.
Jaws : Upper and lower jaws are strong.
Teeth : White and strong with scissors bite.
Eyes : Medium size and almond shaped. The eye colour is dark brown. In blues, amber-coloured eyes are permitted.
Ears : Set on sides of the skull. Medium sized, triangular, inclining forward and firmly pricked. Not cropped.

NECK

Medium length, strong, muscular, slightly arched and holding head high.

BODY

Back : Strong and level.
Loin : Strong and broad.
Croup : Moderately sloping.
Chest : Deep enough to reach the elbows. The ribs are well sprung, but not barrel-shaped.
Lower line : The belly is well tucked up.

TAIL

Thick at base with gradual tapering toward the tip. The tip can reach hock joints. Carried vertically and slightly curved.

LIMBS

FOREQUARTERS :
Shoulder : Well laid back.
Forearm : Straight.
Pastern : Straight when seen from the front and very slightly sloping when seen from the side.
Feet : Oval
Nails : Black but can be lighter depending on coat colour.

HINDQUARTERS : 
Thighs : Well developed with well bent stifles.
Hocks : Strong and well let down.
Rear Pastern : Straight and parallel when seen from the rear.
Feet : Oval
FEET : Medium sized, short, oval, pointing straight foreward with strong pads and well knuckled up.

GAIT

Reachy stride with no pitching nor rolling of the body. Parallel tracking at normal speed. When viewed from the front, the forelegs move up and down in straight lines so that the shoulder, elbow and pastern joints are approximately in line with each other. When viewed from the rear, the stifle and hip joints are approximately in line. Movement in a straight line forward without throwing the feet in or out; thus enabling the stride to be long and drive powerful. The overall appearance of the moving dog is one of smooth flowing and well balanced rhythm.

SKIN

Soft, fine and tight. Throat : no dewlap.

COAT

HAIR : Short and smooth. The ridge on the top region is formed by the hair growing in the opposite direction to the rest of the coat. It should be clearly defined from other parts of the back. There are various shapes and lengths of ridge, but must be symmetrical on either side of the backbone and within the width of the back. Crowns or whirls at the head of the ridge are acceptable.

COLOUR : Solid colour : red, black, blue and very light fawn (isabella). Black mask is preferable in reds.

SIZE

Ideal height at the withers : Dogs 22-24 inches (56-61 cm) Bitches 20-22 inches (51-56 cm).
There is a tolerance of plus or minus one inch (2.5 cm).