Sunday, January 30, 2011

Breed: Fila Brasileiro


This very loyal and fearless guard dog looks like a cross between a Mastiff and a Bloodhound, and was originally bred to protect the Brazilian plantations of the 19th century. 
Centuries ago the ancestors of the Fila Brasileiro were crossed with Bloodhounds, Mastiffs and bulldogs brought to the new world by the Conquistadors. The resulting breed combined the great scenting ability of the Bloodhound, with power and fearless tenacity.
This made the Fila particularly suited to defend the ranches and cattle of the Minas Gerais region against thieves and jaguars. 


Filas were also useful on hunting journeys to track, attack and then hold the prey until the hunter arrived to take over. The word 'Fila' is, in fact, derived from a Portugese word meaning 'to hold' or 'to secure'. At one time this dog was also employed to track down and capture runaway slaves. 

It is probably the only breed that was selected for centuries to deeply dislike the humans they were not raised with, and, to this day, temperament tests run during championships require the dogs to attack without being coached, to remain self-confident during a shooting test, and to openly show their suspicion of strangers. The standard prescribes that, even at dog shows, Filas should not "allow the judge (a stranger) to touch it. And if it attacks the judge, such a reaction must not be considered a fault, but only a confirmation of its temperament." 
Another characteristic of the breed are  its loose joints in the legs and spine. As a results, the Fila is able to change route suddenly and quickly, even at a gallop.

Filas typically have a sad look when at rest, which becomes energetic and determined when on the alert. 

Fila Brasileiro FCI Standards:


This is taken from the 2004 version of the FCI standard, translated by Jennifer Mulholland & Raymond Triquet.



1. General Appearance
Typically a molossoid breed.  Powerful bones, rectangular and compact structure, but harmonious and well proportioned. Displays, together with a massive body, a great amount of concentrated agility which is easily perceived.  Bitches must show a well defined femininity which clearly distinguishes them from males. 
Important Proportions:
The muzzle is slightly shorter than the skull.

The length of the body, measured from the point of the sternum to the point of buttock, is equal to height at the withers plus 10%.

2. Temperament
Courage, determination and outstanding braveness are part of its characteristics.  With its owners and family it is docile, obedient and extremely tolerant with children.  Its loyalty is proverbial, insistingly seeking the company of its master. 
One of its characteristics is its aloofness towards strangers. It displays a calm disposition, distinctive self-assurance and self-confidence, remaining unperturbed by strange noises or circumstances. An unsurpassed guardian of properties, it also instinctively indulges in big game hunting and cattle herding.
Expression:
In repose it is calm; noble and full of self-assurance.  Never displaying a bored or absent expression.  When alert, its expression should reflect determination conveyed by a firm, penetrating look.

3. Head:
The Fila head is big, heavy and massive, always proportionate to the whole body.  From a top view it resembles a trapezoid figure into which a pear shape is inserted.

4. Skull:
The profile of the skull shows a smooth curve from the stop to the occiput, which is well defined and protuberant specially in puppies.  From a front view it is large, broad with the upper line slightly curved.  Lateral lines come down almost vertically, in a slight continuous curve narrowing towards the muzzle. 

5. Stop:
From a front view it is practically non existent.  The median groove is slight and runs up smoothly to approximately the centre of the skull.  Seen from the side, the stop is only slightly pronounced and virtually only formed by the well developed eyebrows.

6. Ears:
Pendant, large, thick, V-shaped.  Broad at the base and tapering to the ends.  Rounded tips.  Attached at the back of the skull, in line with the eyes when in repose.  When roused, the ears are above the original position. The root is oblique, with the front edge higher than the back edge. Falling over the cheeks or folded back showing the inside (rose ear).

7. Eyes:
From medium to large size, almond shaped, spaced well apart, medium to deep set.  Permissible colours - from dark brown to yellow, always in accordance to the colour of the coat.  Due to the  loose skin many individuals present drooping lower eyelids which are not considered a fault as such a detail accentuate the melancholic expression which is typical of the breed. 

8. Muzzle:
Strong, broad and deep, always in harmony with the skull.  Fairly deep at the root but not deeper than long.  Seen from above, it  is full under the eyes, slightly narrowing towards the middle of the muzzle and again broadening slightly to the front line.  Seen from the side, the muzzle is straight or has a Roman line, but never turned up.  The front line of the muzzle is almost perpendicular to the bridge of the nose with a slight depression right under the nose.

9. Lips:
The upper lip is thick and pendulous and overlaps the lower lip in a perfect curve; thus the lower line of the muzzle is almost parallel to the upper line. The lower lip is tight and firm to the fangs and from there on it is loose with dented borders ending at the corners which are always apparent.  The muzzle has a good depth at the root but without surpassing the length.  Edges of the lips form a deep inverted “U”.

10. Nose:
Well developed, broad nostrils not occupying entirely the width of the upper jaw.  Colour : black.

11. Teeth:
The teeth are significantly wider than long. Strong and white. Upper incisors are broad at their root and taper to the edge.  Canines are powerful, well set and well apart.  The ideal bite is a scissor bite but a level bite is acceptable.

12. Neck:
 Extraordinarily strong and muscled giving the impression of a short neck.  Slightly curved at the upper side and well detached from the skull.  Dewlaps at the throat.

13.Trunk:
Strong, broad and deep, covered by thick and loose skin.

14. Thorax:
The thorax is longer than the abdomen.

15. Flank:
Shorter and not so deep as the thorax, showing distinctly the separation of the two component parts.  In females the lower part of the flank is more developed.  Seen from above, the loin is narrower than the thorax and croup but should not form a waistline.

16. Topline:
Withers, in sloping line, are set well apart from each other due to the distance between the shoulder blades.  Withers are set lower than the croup.  After the withers, the upper line changes direction, ascending smoothly to the croup.  Back line shows no tendency to sway or roach back.

17. Lower line:
A long chest and parallel to the ground in all its extension.  Slightly tucked up but never whippety.

18. Chest:
Well sprung ribs though not interfering with the position of shoulder.  Deep and broad chest reaching to the level of the elbows.  Well pronounced brisket.

19. Croup:
Broad, long, sloping at angle of approximately 30 degrees to the horizontal and ending in a smooth curve. The croup is set a little higher than the withers.  From a back view, the croup is ample almost as wide as the chest and can be even  broader for females.

20. Forequarters:
The length of the leg, from the ground to the elbow, should be half of the height from the ground to the withers.
Shoulder:
The shoulder structure should be composed by two bones of equal length (scapula and humerus); the former at 45 degrees to the  horizontal and the latter 90 degrees to the scapula.  The scapla-humerus articulation forms the point of shoulder which is situated at the same level but slightly behind the point of sternum.  In the ideal position, the point of shoulder should be half way from elbow to withers.  An imaginary perpendicular line coming down from the withers should cut the elbow and reach the foot.

21. Legs:
Forearm: The limbs must be parallel.  Strong and straight bones.
Carpal joint (wrist): Strong and apparent.
Metacarpus (pastern): Short, slightly sloping.


22. Feet:
Strong and well arched toes not too close together.  The dog stands on thick toes and pads which are long, broad and deep.  In the correct position, the feet should point forward.  Strong, dark nails; white nails permissible when the corresponding toes are white.

23. Hindquarters:
Less heavy boned than forelegs but never appearing thin compared to the overall build. Hind legs are parallel.

24. Thigh:
Broad with curved outline shaped by strong muscles coming from the ilium and ischium which design the curve of the buttocks and for this reason the ischium must have a good length.

25. Leg:
Tarsus (hock) : Strong.
Metatarsus (Rear pastern) :  Slightly sloping, longer than the metacarpus.  Moderately angled stifle and hock.

26 Hind Feet:
A little more oval than the forefeet but the otherwise identical. Should not present dewclaws.

27. Tail:
Very wide at the root, medium set, tapering rapidly to reach the hocks. When the dog is alert, the tail is raised high and the curve at the extremity is more accentuated.  Should not be carried curled over the back nor touch it.

28. Skin:
One of the most important breed characteristics is the thick, loose skin over the whole body, chiefly at the neck forming pronounced dewlaps and many times it can extend to the brisket and abdomen.  Some individuals present a fold at the sides of the head, also at the withers running down to the shoulders. If the dog is in repose, the head should be free from wrinkles.  When alert, the dog raises its ears and the contraction of the skin on the skull forms small longitudinal wrinkles between the ears.

29. Coat:
Hair: Short, smooth, dense and close to the body.

30. Colors:
Any solid colours are permitted except the disqualifying ones.  Brindles with a solid coat and more or less dark stripes.
A black mask may or may not be present.  In all permitted colours white marks are allowed on the feet, chest and tip of tail.  White markings on other parts of the coat are considered a fault.

31. Gait:
Movement: Long and elastic feline-like strides whose principal  characteristic is the pace; a two beat lateral gait in which the legs of each side move back and forth exactly as a pair (“camel’s pace” or amble) causing a rolling or rocking motion of the thorax and hips accentuated by the tail when carried erect.  When walking, it carries the head lower than the back line. The trot is smooth, free and effortless with a long, powerful and reaching stride. The gallop is powerful, attaining unsuspected speed for such a large and heavy dog.  Due to its articulations, typical of molossoids, the Fila’s movements not only give the impression but actually allow him to make sudden and rapid changes of direction.

32. Height:
Height at withers: Males: from 65 cm (25.6 ins) to 75 cm (29.5 ins) at the shoulder.
Bitches: from 60 cm (23.6 ins) to 70 cm (27.5 ins) at the shoulder.

33. Weight:
Males: minimum: 50 kgs (100 pounds)
Bitches: minimum: 40 kgs (80 pounds).

Tuesday, January 25, 2011

Dog Food: Getting Started


Frequently Asked Questions



The general guideline is 2% to 3% of your dog's ideal adult weight. This is only a starting point. Each dog is different. Watch your dog's waist and ribs. If your dog gets too chuby, cut back on what you're feeding. If your dog gets too thin, increase what you're feeding.
How should I start? Should I switch my dog gradually to a raw diet?

Most dogs do best with being switched cold turkey. Feed kibble one day, feed raw the next day. Kibble is an unnatural food for a carnivore. It takes your dog much longer to digest kibble than it will to digest raw. If you try to alternate between the two the raw food can get "stuck in traffic" behind the kibble. This can cause the raw food to pass more slowly through the system than it should which can cause problems for some dogs.
What should I start with when I switch my dog to raw?

One common beginner mistake is to feed too much variety too soon. Pick one protein source and stick with it for a week or two. A popular choice for dogs new to raw is chicken. It's inexpensive, the bones are relatively soft and easy to digest for beginners, and it's easy to find. Chicken leg quarters are a good choice for most dogs. They have a good amount of meat on them. Avoid cuts with very little meat on them like necks or wings. Also, necks, because of their shape and size, can be a choaking hazzard.
I just offered my dog a raw meal and he/she is looking at me like I've grown a second head. What should I do?

There are a few possibilities. First there are additives to kibble to make it addictive to dogs. Raw food won't have as strong a smell so your dog may not realize that what you've put in front of him/her is actually food. Sometimes tuff love is required to convince them otherwise. Give your dog 10 to 15 minutes. If he/she is showing no interest in the food casually take it up and put it in the fridge for next meal time. DO NOT offer anything else until next meal time. At the next meal time offer the SAME thing that was refused at the previous meal and repeat the process. Some dogs have been known to hold out two or three days, or longer, before they decide to accept raw food. Believe me this is tougher on the human than on the dog. I know you will be tempted to give your dog a snack. Resist the temptation for your dog's sake. A healthy dog will not starve himself/herself. There are some medical reasons why your dog may not want to eat what you're offering. Periodontal disease is quite common in kibble fed dogs. If your dog's mouth is in bad shape and causing him/her pain he/she may be reluctant to eat RMBs(Raw Meaty Bones). If you suspect that there might be a medical reason why your dog is reluctant to eat you should have him/her checked out by a vet.

http://www.rawfeddogs.net/FAQs

Thursday, January 20, 2011

Breed: Bully Kutta






Bully in its name actually comes from the Punjabi or Hindi/Urdu word bohli—meaning heavily wrinkled, and Kutta means dog.


Beast From The East


known as "The Beast from the East". This powerful mastiff type breed is also referred to as Indian Mastiff and Pakistani Mastiff. The Indian Mastiff name was given due to the fact that that this rare breed of dog hails from southern India specifically from the Thanjavur and Tiruchi districts. The Pakistani Mastiff name was given as although the breed was developed in India these dogs are most commonly seen and used today in areas that belong to Pakistan.
The Persian Army used Bully Kuttas, but just for guarding and were introduced into Greece by Xerxes the First when he marched towards this country in 486-465 B.C.. The Bully kutta originated in and around the desert area of Kutch, the Rajasthan area and Bhawalpur area of Punjab. A part of the Kutch area in Rajasthan was under the Sindh District and so the other name of this breed is Sindh Mastiff. Alongside the Kumaon Mastiff, the Bully Kutta were used for hunting large games. A sudden change in the hunting practises saw the Indian Royal families to use cheetahs for hunting instead. This changed the Bully Kuttas job to guard for bothe man and live stock. With time most people forgot the breeds and the Bully Kutta became rare. This breed is Loyal, healthy and very dependable with a natural and relentless guarding ability. The breed is highly sociable and surprisingly trainable. Socialising is key from an early age.


The Bully Kutta has a short smooth coat that is usually predominantly white in colour, however fawn, black, harlequin, red and brindle markings vary. The muzzle is black and the skin around their neck and mouth is loose. The brisket is deep, and the limbs are well muscled. The back is long with the tail tapering to a fine point. The ears are set high on the skull and pricked. It has a long and graceful stride. The males vary from 32 to 40 inches and females from 28 to 36 inches tall. They usually weigh 150 to 170 pounds and can reach up to 200 pounds plus, especially for males. They are very muscular and thick boned.

Bully Kutta is  very intelligent and noble, this is an extremely powerful guard  dog only loved and worshiped world wide by the most  enthusiastic canine lovers. With proper socialization and appropriate training, the Bully Kutta will make an amenable companion for responsible and knowledgeable owners. The Pakistani Bully Kutta is a powerful mastiff, strongly-boned and muscular. Long-legged and wide-chested, this breed is an agile and resilient Molosser, capable of great speed and known for its impressive stamina. The head is large, with a strong muzzle and well-developed jaws A pure Bully Kutta is also famous for its characteristic tiger-like movement, which sets it apart from other breeds.

Pictures:


































Tuesday, January 11, 2011

Breed: Afghan Koochee

Nomad Cultures of Middle Asia:
Evidence of early nomad cultures in what is now known as Middle Asia exist as far back as 2000 B.C. This is when first artefacts from the nomadic iron age appear in Aq Kapruk IV. The ancient Aryan city of Kabul is established, now in eastern Afghanistan.
Throughout the ages, following the Silk Road from China through India and into Afghanistan, Turkmenistan, Uzbekistan, Tadjikistan, Kazakhstan, Kyrgystan and Iran, caravans followed the Oxus River using the grasslands and water to sustain their livestock. They had a rich culture and a healthy lifestyle. Their dependence on the natural world resulted in a great wealth of knowledge about nature.

The nomads depended on their animals for food - cheese yogurt, meat - and wool and skins for shelter and wonderful textiles such as kilims, carpets or donkey/camel/sheep bags for transporting their things. The designs for these textiles varied depending on the tribe making them and are much sought after now in western markets. 
In order to protect their livestock and themselves these nomads needed loyal, intelligent, tough guard dogs that had strong bodies, that were quick and agile, and which were also independent and relatively self-sufficient and able to hunt for their own food. These were the priorities for breeding these dogs. Color, unlike selection in the western world , had no priority. 
In my opinion, this is what provided the foundation for the old bloodlines from which have developed the many regional types of Middle Asian dogs we now have today. 

These dogs had to be able to withstand extreme highs and lows of temperatures in the mountains, and in the deserts. They had to be tough enough, and fit enough, to keep pace with camels.
They had to have the stamina to live on minimum food and water supply, yet keep their ability to do their jobs regardless of the environmental conditions.
Often, this meant hunting their own food, such as small desert mammals, in order to survive. And they had to be strong enough to fight off any intruders, animal or human.
On most occasions, these dogs could probably just scare off an overly curious mountain lion or wolf, but every once in awhile these dogs had to face the predators in direct combat, and show fearless aggression in deterring a threat to their flock.
This determination was later appreciated by hunters, who used these dogs to hunt bears, mountain lions, and even giant tigers.

Although Koochee dogs had the ability to drive off any predator, they were not bred for aggression. Quite the opposite; if a dog showed too much aggressive behaviour, that dog would be culled, either by humans or by older, stronger dogs in a pack.
It is in more recent times, that Koochee dogs have become a valuable commodity on the fighting circuits in traditional and non-traditional environments.
However, many owners, who do not understand the origins of these beautiful animals, often deem them to be cowardly in the first few years of their development. This 'cowardice' is an adaptation of a Koochee dog to survive in their harsh surroundings by learning about them and accepting their role, until they become strong enough. This limits the risks to their health when challenging for leadership of the pack.
A typical Koochee dog will complete this learning process in about the first three years of their life. This is considerably longer than in any other breed.

Origins Of Middle Asian Breed Differentiation
Social and political conditions in this area have changed dramatically over the years causing some nomad tribes to settle in some areas and become farmers due to declining access to traditional grazing land and migratory routes. Others have been forced to move and (re)settle in other areas due to war.
Afghan nomads have moved and settled in parts of Uzbekistan which used to be a part of Afghanistan. Some Turkmen people live in Tadjikistan, Pakistan, Iran and even Turkey today.

All of these people brought their dogs with them and have continued to breed them. Their dogs now demonstrate signs of regional difference - some obvious and some more subtle. This may be due, in part, to the inevitable crossbreeding (with the existing region's dogs) which occurs when a people and thier dogs move into a new region, as well as the natural adaptation of the breed over the years (i.e. in angulation, coat qualities, head, muscular construction etc.) to a particular climate/landscape (i.e. mountain, steppe, desert). 

Koochee Dogs
Koochee dogs are a result of centuries of breeding guardian dogs by nomadic tribes of Middle Asia (Koochee people).
Although they are not recognized as a breed, they posess a set of character traits that are recognizable and distinguishable among certain types of dogs. These traits are not based simply on appearance, but instead encompass a dogs behaviour, their pre-dispositions, reactions, and special adaptations to their native environment.
Koochee dogs are unique, in that they have not yet been victimized by western breeding standards, and are still true to their origin and purpose. There are quite a few officially recognized breeds of dogs that resemble the koochee dogs, and are their close relatives (i.e. Kangal dog of Turkey, also known as the Anatolian Shepherd, Central Asian Shepherds (Ovcharka) or CAO, and many large shepherd and guard breeds throughout Asia and Europe). 

Unique adaptations

All Koochee dogs have a protective underwool coat, which enables them to regulate their body temperature in various conditions.
As they are a rather large dog (typically in the range of about 80 cm (32 inches) at the withers, and averaging a weight of about 55-65 kg (135 - 155 lbs.)), it would be expected that they would 'overheat' fairly quickly in warm and hot temperatures.
However, that is not so.
Koochee dogs are very resistant to heat exhaustion, and have an instinctive ability to conserve their strength, and limit their efforts to a minimum, until exertion is required of them.
For this reason, they might sometimes appear sluggish, or lazy, or disinterested and tired. That is only an illusion. A Koochee dog can suddendly leap up, even from a sleeping position, and surprise with their great agility and tremendous speed.
In motion they resemble a cat, despite their great size showing to be nimble and fleet-footed.

Because their gene pool was not limited to produce dogs that are either big, heavy, with long coat, or light, skinny, with short coats, their phenotypes can adapt easily, according to the demands placed on them in their surroundings. Hence the variety in types of Koochee dogs.
There are three main types, with sub-variants from mixing the types or raising them in different localities.
Of the three, the mountain type is the heaviest, with the longest coat, while the desert type is the lightest, with the shortest coat.
The steppe type is somewhere in between, and most capable of reflecting the characteristics of both in its phenotype, according to the environment they are raised in.
Because of the rich variety present in Koochee gene pool, these dogs are incredibly resistant to genetic defects and diseases that normally plague the dog world.
Their health is legendary, and their longevity and durability is maintained in original populations. With careful breeding and providing the right setting for these dogs, this vitality can remain in a non-traditional context as well.

Koochee Characteristics
Depending on their geographic area of origin, three types of koochee dogs can be recognized based on the length of the coat.
They are mountain-type, steppe-type, and desert-type (including the half-desert sub-variant). Individual types will be discussed in greater detail further on.
All three types have an underwool, but the mountain-type dogs have longer fur than the steppe-type, and the steppe-type have longer hair than the desert-type.
No matter which type these dogs are, they should be agile, fast, and very athletic, with great stamina. In this way, they are much different than most dogs seen at dog shows today. Their development is a result of their working lifestyle, which is the very purpose of their breeding.
Appearance, including size and weight, as well as coat color, was never a criteria for breeding these dogs.
Nomad people need a breed that can run fast, work under arduous conditions, without much food and water, and in extreme temperatures. 
MOUNTAIN TYPE: 

Environment: Mountainous regions, with higher elevetions, more humidity, and lower temperatures (especially in wintertime)
Appearance: Heavier, longer coat. Stronger bone structure. Medium height, with broader chest. Larger, mastiff-type head (brick-type head).
Special notes: Mountain-type Koochee dogs move slower along a flat ground, but they are very agile in mountaineous regions. They can climb and cover areas of rock faster than other Koochee types. Similar as in Taighan (hunting windhound of Middle Asia - mountain regions). 

STEPPE TYPE:

Environment: Large, flat expanse of land covered with wild steppe vegetation (small bushes, brush grass)
Appearance: Medium to long fur. Medium bone structure. Medium to tall height (between 70 and over 80 cm). Mastiff-like head in more-less windhound habitus.
Special notes: On a flat ground these dogs are very fast compared to the mountain-type. Similar as Tazi (hunting windhound of Middle Asia - steppe regions) 

DESERT TYPE:

Environment: Dry, dusty, flat desert landscape, very often rich in salt and calcium carbonate, quite hot throughout most of the year, especially in the summer (temperatures reaching 50�C).
In the winter temperatures can fall below 0.
Appearance: Short coat, with underwool in cold season. Strong bone structure. Medium height.
**I assume that the salt minerals and calcium carbonate contribute to the strong bone structure of these dogs, and the salty soil helps prevent parasitic infections .
Special Note: Can exhibit head characteristics from two other types.

Content Taken From:
koocheedog.com

Photos: